gvdammerung writes "Fashion in the Flanaess - The Western Aerdi looks at the fashions of Furyondy, Veluna, Verbobonc, Dyvers and Perrenland etc. - Old Ferrond. Western Aerdi Fashion is arguably the most elaborate in the Flanaess, drawing from historic fashions in France, Germany and England. If there is a center for fashion innovation, it is in the Aerdi West. Presented are male, female and unisex garments as well as direct inheritances from the Aerdi East, most notably the old Great Kingdom.
Fashion in the Flanaess - The Western Aerdi
By: Glenn Vincent Dammerung, aka GVDammerung
With the able assistance of S. Katherine Dammerung, aka SKDammerung
Posted with permission. Do not repost without obtaining priorpermission from the author.
The most refined or developed fashions in the Flanaess may be found in the Aerdi West. Furyondy, Veluna, Verbobonc, Perranland, and Dyvers enjoy the history and heritage of the Aerdi East but are invigorated by contact with the Baklunish West and the Suel South. A lively commerce between East and West, and North and South creates ideal cultural and economic conditions for the development of fashion. There is a crossroads of trade and people, disposable income and a system of royal, noble and mercantile courts various enough, yet sharing a strong enough historic connection in Old Ferrond, to make cultural exchanges frequent, dependable and useful in the broad community of peoples.
Furyondy and Veluna set the pace. The alliance between the secular and religious states is yet another intermingling that spurs cultural development. In Veluna, there is also the interplay of multiple temple factions, while in Furyondy there is a tradition of local courts with strong identities. The new court of King Artur in Furyondy furthers continuing development in fashion as it presents the grandest stage in the Aerdi West upon which nobles may parade before their peers. The alliance between Furyondy and Veluna also provides a necessary stability lacking in the Aerdi West and overgrown with almost stagnant tradition in the South.
What follows is a description of male and female wardrobes. Historic models are the late Gothic and subsequent Renaissance periods in France, England and Germany.
Inherited Fashions from the Aerdi East
Three garments common in the Aerdi East have a common currency in the Aerdi West. These are set out below but are described in more detail within the discussion of fashion in the Aerdi East. See Fashion in the Flanaess - The Aerdi East.
Cote: An item of women’s wardrobe, the Cote is a proto-gown with the body and skirt cut as a single unit, with no train.
Sur-Cote: An item of women’s wardrobe, the Sur-Cote is a sleeveless proto-gown with extremely deep arm openings, usually to the waist. The Sur-Cote is made of heavier material and is worn over the Cote, exposing and contrasting with it.
Cote-hardie: A unisex garment, a Cote-hardie has a close fitting, long waisted body with long sleeves and a high collar. From the elbows of the sleeves hang tippets, long tails of fabric. A man’s Cote-hardie will be typically cut to the knee. A woman’s Cote-hardie will be cut to just above the ankle. In both instances, there will be a flare to the skirt of the Cote-hardie, not simply a fullness.
Male Wardrobe in the Aerdi West
Kirtle: A men's undergarment falling to the waist or knee.
Jupon: A Jupon is a close fitting, long sleeved shirt-coat. The sleeves are not usually slashed or puffed but are closely fitted. A Jupon may be thought of as a light proto-doublet. A Jupon is worn with hose.
Pourpoint: A Pourpoint is a Jupon with sleeves that widen immensely from the elbow. This affect may be that of simply enormous sleeves from elbow to wrist or is may be manifest with tippets from the elbow, much like those of a Cote-hardie. A Pourpoint is worn with hose.
Doublet: A Doublet is a padded, long sleeved, shirt-coat that is usually open in the front to expose the Jupon that is worn underneath. The sleeves of a doublet are routinely puffed and may be slashed as well. Rather than being sewn to the bodice, the sleeves of a Doublet are tied to the bodice. It is thus possible to accessorize the sleeves of a Doublet. A Doublet is worn with hose. A Partlet, a decorative piece of fabric worn under, and designed to be set off against, the Doublet, may also be worn, with or instead of the Jupon.
Brassart & Mancheron: If the sleeves of a Doublet are accessorized, they are identified as Brassart & Mancheron. The Brassart is that part of the sleeve from the elbow to the wrist. The Mancheron is that part of the sleeve from the elbow to the shoulder. They are attached with ribbons or laces and are separates that can be mixed and matched.
Jerkin: A Jerkin is worn over a Doublet. It has long sleeves, which may be slashed and puffed, and is open in the front to the waistline, displaying the Doublet. If sleeveless, a Jerkin will have excess material, wings, gathered at the shoulders.
Gambeson: A Gambeson is a sleeveless leather or quilted fabric tunic that falls to the knees. It is often highly ornate. It may be worn with a Jupon or Doublet but not normally with a Pourpoint or Jerkin. The Gambeson was originally a military garment that has been adapted for general wear.
Pelicon (majeur): A development on the Eastern Aerdi Pelicon (minor), the Western Aerdi Pelicon is a loose fitting overgarment that falls to the knee. Unlike the Eastern Pelicon, the Western version has solid sides and long sleeves. However, the lower body, below the waist, is split from the waist in the front and from the knee on the sides. Fur is again a major feature of the Western Pelicon. The body of the Pelicon and trim are often made of contrasting furs.
Mantelet: A Mantelet is a short cape that is often worn with a Doublet.
Buff-coat: A Buff-coat is a long, fuller Jerkin made of leather. It is worn out of doors and protects the wearer and his clothes from dirt and the elements.
Campaign Coat: A heavier and yet more full version of the Buff-coat, the Campaign Coat is made be made of heavy cloth, fur or leather. Originally a military garment, it has been adapted to common wear.
Journade: A short, circular jacket with large full sleeves, which may or may not be slit. It is worn specifically for riding and is a fashionable garment, unlike the Buff-coat or Campaign Coat.
Huque: A flowing, calf-length outer-garment, the Huque is slashed below the waist, front, back and sides. It is fur-trimmed and is a fashionable garment, serving a purpose similar to the Buff-coat but with intended style.
Chausons: Chausons are leggings that come in two varieties that may be worn together or separately.
Bas-de-Chausons: These Chausons are hose or tights. They may patterned or colored.
Haute-de-Chausons: These Chausons are virtually breeches but more fitted to the leg.
Chaussembles: These are Bas-de-Chausons with soles of leather built in. They can be worn without shoes in limited circumstances.
Gaskins: Gaskins are hose which balloon out above the knee to the crotch. They are also called barrell hose. Commonly worn by the gnomes of the Flinty and Kron Hills, they occasionally appear in human fashion. They are not considered fashionable, however, except as an affectation.
Codpiece: A decorated codpiece is usually worn with the Jupon, Pourpoint and Doublet.
Moufles: Moufles are fingerless gloves used for hunting or working.
Female Wardrobe in the Aerdi West
Kalasiris: A Kalasiris is a long, sheath-type dress with one or two shoulder straps or pinned fabric. The Kalasiris represents the influence of both the Suel and Elven fashion in the Aerdi West.
The Gown: A gown is a unique garment, not a dress and not a Cote or similar garment. It is floor length, with or without a train, smoothly fitted, with a high waisted bodice and long, tight sleeves. It has an immensely full, pleated skirt. The collar is typically of the shawl type and is rolled back to expose the neck. The neckline is V shaped and can run to the waist to reveal the underdress, called a corset (not the modern lingerie item) worn beneath the gown or the Partlet, a decorative piece of fabric worn under and designed to be set off against the gown. The decolletage is distinct from the neckline and may be high or low cut, conservative or daring. A wide belt often completes the gown.
Farthingale: A Farthingale is a shaped support that goes under a Gown’s skirt to give it a stiffened fullness. Farthingales are either round, creating a barrel-like effect, or bell shaped, creating a curved out from the waist affect.
Pannier: A Pannier is a Farthingale that only extends to the sides of the skirt, not the front and back.
Fieltro: - A Fieltro is a hooded riding cape. The hood is stiffened to stand away from the face.
Footmantle: A Footmantle is an outer skirt worn when riding to keep skirts clean.
Mousquetaire: Mousquetaire are long, loose gloves.
Uni-Sex Wardrobe in the Aerdi West
Houppelande: A Houppelande is a loose fitting garment worn by both men and women. The mens Houppelande falls to the calf, while the woman’s Houppelande is floorlength or falls to the ankle. In either case, the Houppelande may or may not be belted. The Houppelande has a high collar and flowing sleeves, the edges of which may be decorated, dagged etc. or tippeted. The Houppelande is considered court dress, although it might be worn everyday in some noble households, and is an outgrowth of the Cote-hardie. An invention of the Furyondians, the Houppelande is traditional attire but somewhat archaic. It is, however, required dress during Yule celebrations.
Dogaline: A Dogaline is a loosefitting straight cut robe with very wide sleeves. The lower edges of the sleeves are turned up and fastened to the shoulder to reveal the sleeve of the undergarment.
Fourchettes: Fourchettes are narrow, stylish gloves.
Pelerine: A Pelerine is a short shoulder cape made of fur.
Pellison: A Pellison is an embroidered, fur lined outer tunic, worn open to display the lining.
Shoes in the Aerdi West - Males
Poulaine: A Pouliane is a leather, cloth or satin shoe with an exaggerated, long toe that comes to a point. It is a male shoe, most stylishly worn with a Jupon or Pourpoint with hose.
Heuse: Heuse are mid-length boots, fastened with bottons, buckles or straps.
Landrine: - Landrines are boots with a a wide flared cuff that reaches halfway up the leg. The cuff may be turned up when riding.
Shoes in the Aerdi West - Females
Chopines: Chopines are wooden platform shoes, a forerunner of the highheel.
Pinsons: Pinsons are indoor, furred slippers.
Shoes in the Aerdi West - Unisex
Pattens: Pattens are wooden sandals worn to protect and display soft shoes.
Botews: Botews are patterned silk boots.
Chaussures-a-Cries: Platform shoes, elaborately decorated, with a steeply raised heel.
Hats in the Aerdi West - Males
Copotain: A Copotain is a high hat with a conical rounded crown and a medium sized brim turned up at the sides and back.
Bycocket: A Bycocket is a high crowned hat with a wide brim that is turned up at the sides and back and peaked in front. It is also called a Sugarloaf Hat.
Roundlet: A Roundlet is a stuffed turban with multiple stuffed tails emanating from the crown or sides.
Chaperon Turban: A Chaperon Turban is a stuffed turban with a single long, stuffed tail that extends to the shoulders.
Hats in the Aerdi West - Female
Coif - A Coif is a metal hair net, usually made of gold or silver with small gems where strands of the netting cross.
Dorelet: A Dorelet is a woman’s hairnet, ornamented with jewels, but smaller than a Coif. It is more of a skull cap.
Camail: Initially a military headpiece of chain mail, the Camail is now a longer version of the Coif, draping to the shoulders and, possibly the neck.
Couvrechef: A Couvrechef is a scarf or veil worn with and under a Coif.
Hennin: A long, pointed, conical headdress. A veil or scarf may be attached at the very tip of the Hennin.
Escoffion: A Couvrechef with two "horns" to each side of the head.
Bourrelet: A padded, sausage shaped roll that forms the base for a headdress.
Cache-laid: A fashionable mask that is worn in public.
Capuchon: A Capuchon is a soft hood and shoulder mantle.
Crispine: A Crispine is a band, usually ribbon, worn at the forehead and tied under the hair. A Crispinette is the veil that can be draped over the Crispine.
Fillet: A Fillet is a narrow brow band, usually ribbon, that is tied around the hair.
Festul: A Festul is a long decorated veil that is held in place by a tiara or
Fillet. The Festul hangs to below the hips.
Fouriaux: A Fouriaux is a silk hair sheath worn over braided hair or a chignon (coil or knot of hair at the back of the neck) at the back of the head.
Fontanges: A Fontanges is a starched and pleated, lace and ribbon headdress that forms the basis for an extreme, upswept hairstyle commonly called a tower headdress.
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